EMYR Navigational Report From Kath & Dave Gerard, SY Mashona 27 – 28 – 29 April 2009
Bozcaada to Ayvalık,
The weather forecast for the following day was not much different from the strong northerlies which had forced us to alter our route from Gökçeada to Bozcaada so a tour was quickly arranged to visit the island.
But first a little history of this island, Bozcaada, which was known as Tenedos in Greek mythology, has been invaded many times, its history dates back to 3000BC The first inhabitants known where Pelazzis. then, came Phoenicians, Greeks, After a long period of Ottoman rule, Bozcaada was invaded by the Greeks during the 1912 Balkan Wars, and was returned to Turkey together with Gokceada under the 1923 Treaty of Lausanne.
The Greek population gradually reduced in numbers till now there are only a handful of mostly elderly people still living there.
The harbour is dominated by the impressive castle built initially by the Venetians and improved by the Genoese. It deteriorated over the years but was restored by the Ottomans. It really is in a good state of repair although there is little interpretation material available it is not hard to imagine what life must have been like here in those times. Its views over the Dardanelle approach and across to Turkey and the ancient city of Troy are magnificent.
Bozcaada has always been famous for its wines and vineyards blanket the south facing slopes. Talay, Ataol and Yunatçılar-have produced some fine wines over the past few years. Red wine fans should try Talay's Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2002 and Karalana 2002 and Yunatcılar's Cabernet Sauvignon 2002. Fans of white wine should try Talay's Assos 2002 and Yunatcılar's Camlıbağ Vasilaki 2001. Yunatcılar's Kuntra 2000 is highly prized.
In addition there are now boutique wineries being established we made friends with one of the owners of these. The wines are quite different than we had sampled previously being much more rounded and mellow.
As well as wine Bozcaada also has a unique tomato preserve, flavoured with almonds together with the local cheese and a bottle of wine this makes a wonderful lunch.
Whilst the majority of the rally group visited the island I managed to catch up with e-mails and talk to the mayor. He was telling me that they are planning a new marina here in Bozcaada this will be a great asset to visiting yachts as the quay will only accommodate about 14 boats and if a southerly is blowing it can make it very uncomfortable.
Our rally dinner was held in a restaurant overlooking the sea another really nice meal and of course very fine wines from Bozcaada.
We had hoped the next day to retrace our steps and make a short visit to Gokceada but unfortunately the weather gods where not kind and the forecast of Beaufort 4 to 5 and later 6 from the North decided the programme.
Ayvalık marina where very kind and accepted us a day early so with the wind behind (or so we thought) that is what we decided to do. As it turned out the forecast was wrong and we had little wind and what we had was East most people managed to sail at least for some of the way by tacking from side to side up the Lamu channel.
The passage to Ayvalık is only about 55nm but includes rounding the cape of Babakale then down the Lamu channel and into the inland sea of Ayvalık : one of my favourite sea journeys along the Turkish coast. We turned the point of Babakale at about 10’oclock and enjoyed the magnificent views of the imposing castle built on the promontory, there is a small fishing shelter built there which offers protection in inclement conditions.
The Lamu channel runs between the Turkish mainland and the Greek island of Lesbos as we tacked down this we had to change our courtesy flags three times as we moved between Greek and Turkish waters.
We have always seen Dolphins in these waters and it wasn’t long before we were joined by a solitary male ridding our bow wave he stayed with us for nearly three hours leaving only as we cleared the channel and headed across open water to approach the Ayvalık archipelago. Twenty two islands make up this area and a narrow channel protects the inland sea on which the beautiful town of Ayvalık is situated. Finding the entrance to the channel is not difficult as it is well buoyed, just keep between the markers.
Now we are in Ayvalık marina and meeting one new boat here Joy participants from two years ago.
Just one further story to tell-our cat Tilly, on sailing days we always put our cat on a lead, she does have a propensity to go missing just before you slip. I was up first making the tea and fastened the puss up but forgot to put her on the short lead. The next thing I heard was a large splash and a plaintive mew. Tilly must have got to the end of the passerell, decided to jump for the quay, then realised in mid air there was not a lot of lead left, pulled up in mid air she plunged 6 feet into the water. When I got there she was climbing up the ladder aboard I am pleased to report she is fine and only her dignity has been dented.
Dave, Kath and Tilly aboard Mashona.